To be honest, I picked just about the worst possible project vehicle I could when starting Project Pile House. It didn’t have much going for it, the body was dented and rusty, the drivetrain was seized and trashed, and the interior was equally as dilapidated. My goal is to show what can be done on a budget with some key tools and a little bit of creative thinking.
This part of the project is no different than the rest. The original seat was trashed beyond belief and seemed almost unusable, but I was sure I wanted to do something custom with it. I know the easy way out is to use a modern minivan or car bench seat, but that look isn’t for me. I decided to reuse the original seat frame as it had some cool beadwork in the sides and corner braces that actually matched the running boards I had built previously. I started by sketching out some rough designs on some chipboard and cutting the main panels out first.
Once I came up with a design I liked I cut out 18 gauge sheet metal to match the shape of the original seat frame with the Electric Metal Shears. I then lined the panels up, drilled holes, and installed Cleco Panel Clamps around the perimeter of the panels to hold them in place throughout the build. I knew I would be taking the panels on and off quite a bit so using clecos helped make lining the panels back up each time a breeze.
With the rear and bottom panels made up I moved on to making the back support panels and center console for the seat. I measured out two inch flanges and put just under a 45 degree angle on the braces to get them to contact both main panels. I then doubled up the metal thickness in the Versa-Bend Sheet Metal Brake to give a nice rounded bend on the front of the center console. I again used clecos to mount everything in place. Once all of the panels were cut I carefully drew out my design on each panel. Accurate measurements is a must when laying out a pattern for rolling beads as it will become your guide to roll the mandrels over.
With my patterns all laid out on my panels I used the 1/2″ mandrels in the Bead Roller to run the beads. I then drilled and punched holes in the support panels and center console using Punch and Bead Dies and used clecos to put everything back together.
At this point the seat was really starting to take shape and I was ready to start permanently attaching each panel to the seat frame. The air and space industry have been using rivets to hold panels together since the beginning and they are the key to making your “industrial” or “bomber inspired” car or accessory look the part. Some guys are using fake rivets or spot welds to simulate the effect, but we’ve recently come out with a DIY-priced rivet kit to install solid aircraft rivets. I decided to test the kit and installed the rivets in the braces. The key when installing the rivets is to make sure you are square on the head with the air hammer. Otherwise the hammer can jump or contact the edge of the rivet and leave “smiley faces”. These are unacceptable in the air industry and to anyone in the “know” they look unprofessional. I admit the first few rivets I ran I had to drill out and redo, but after I got into the groove of things it went pretty smoothly without too many do-overs.
I then slowly worked around the perimeter of the seat and used the TIG 200 AC/DC to weld the seat pans to the frame. The clecos help keep the panel clamped tight to the frame, but some areas I needed to use Locking C-Clamp Pliers to hold the panel tight against the frame.
With all of the panels riveted and welded in place I moved on to assembling the center console. I decided to butt weld the top and side panels together so I could metal finish the surface to make it all look like one. I’ve found it’s easier blend and work a weld on a flat instead of a corner or curve. For this reason I decided to tip and round the edges of the top of the console down with a Straight T Dolly so that my weld seam was on a flat area. I then clamped and welded everything together using the MIG 175 . I did have to put some relief cuts in the top panel and use the a hammer and dolly to work the panel smooth, but after blending the welds with a flap disc and scuff pad the console blends smoothly into the seat frame.
Now that the fabrication is done on the seat I was able to bolt it back into the truck and I can continue to work on setting up the rest of the interior. My only problem now is that the seat outshines the rest of the interior and I need to step up my game on the interior.. it’s a never-ending battle! Check out the video above for action shots of the seat build process and be sure to subscribe to the blog to get notified of updates on Pile House in the future.
-Matt/EW
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Very nice work and great looking project.
That Bomber seat should give a nasty tooth ache to the mice that try to nest in Pilehouse years from now in the Eastwood Barn. Nice tutorial and video. Keep them coming, I learn something every time!
All right man! Your idea is cool. As you stated now you have to step up your game on the rest of the interior. That is part of the creative process. Like your craftsmanship. A very good article.
You can find those here: http://search.eastwood.com/search?w=punch+flare
They are out, you can find them here: http://search.eastwood.com/search?w=punch+flare
Hi, Yes those can be found here: http://search.eastwood.com/search?w=punch+flare
I see in the one photo that there is to different dies used, one dimple one with with a ring affect. Is this part of the die set you are coming out with?
Hey Matt, this is the second time I have read this and on August 26/14 you told me the dimpler was in the R&D stages. I’m still waiting to hear you are now making available to the public as I still need one.
Whats the story Bro???
Nice seat but no mention of the punch and hole flagging tool??
The Rivet Set is currently available on our website, though it has been very popular and has been selling out from time to time. We don’t have a good time frame on the dimple die set, but we should have a better idea shortly!
I know you have been asked this several times. Is eastwood any closer to selling the dimple die set and the rivet tool. Thanks
We’re hoping to have them out in the spring-early summer.
Hey any update on the punch/ dimple die set?
A pull-through style cutting and bead forming die we are still prototyping. Thanks for reading!
-Matt/EW
I will be installing some lap belts that the buckle side will come up through one of the holes on the back-to-bottom brace so it can be tucked behind the seat when at a cruise-in or show. Thanks for the kind words we appreciate it!
That is a nice-looking bomber seat. I can’t wait for the dimple dies & rivet tool to become available. The tools from the aircraft supply houses are too expensive. So, I have “fabbed” my own…but, it makes the process so slow.
the flanges around the holes how they were made
Matt:
How will you be handling installation of seat belts with the bomber seats?
By the way, love your Eastwood products and would recommend anyone near Pottstown visit the show room.
Hi Mike,
We’re currently working on perfecting a set of these. Not sure of exact ETA, but we’ll be sure to post when they’re finally available!
Thanks,
Matt/EW
Matt, I need one of those dimple die kits you used to make the counsil holes and seat holes as I have just made a pair of bomber seats out of an aluminum fuef tank off a big truck. Also good for gas tank inlet on the back of my Tudor.. Where can I find this tool.
Thank you
Mike
You can make a removable cushion that you can put down similar to what you’d see on outdoor patio furniture if you so desire!
Speaking for us ‘chicks’… those seats are BAD-ASS!
Awesome article~!
There is a lot of great info about the punches and dies in this thread on GarageJournal: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38532&page=7
I’d love to have the aircraft rivet, punch, and die set. It’s like buying a bomber-seat tool kit! The sooner you guys make them, the sooner I will buy them! Thanks for the excellent write-up!
I like the design and idea but are you just sitting on metal? I got a 65 chevelle 4 door with bench seat in rear and for something different
I used a dimple die type pull-through punch tool. We’re currently testing these and should have some of our own out later this year.
What did you use to punch the large holes in the center console? I’ve heard of dimple dies, but haven’t seen them.
Who makes this tool?
Thanks!